SINEQUANON: Knit Sweater Dress Pattern

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All NEW patterns will be advertised on my NEW website https://conceptcreative.club/ , please change your subscription :). Thank you!

There’s truly nothing we love more in winter than a stylish turtleneck sweater dress – your absolutely necessary piece (aka SINE QUA NON), that makes you feel confident and comfortable in winter. Length of cuffs anknit warm sweaterd collar can be worked to desired length. Decide whether you wish to leave a simple V-neck or add a generous turtleneck so you won’t need a scarf when wearing this dress. It’s easy to style it with any long coat and boots for a fashion-forward winter look – see video with this dress  on my Instagram.

A special thanks to all Ravelers who have shown so much love to this pattern www.ravelry.com/designers/conceptcreativestore during a short time after publishing it!

CONSTRUCTION:
This sweater dress is made in four rectangular trapezoids sewn together to a relaxed silhouette with not well-defined shoulders – thus, it suits all types of shoulders (broad, narrow, sloping or straight).
The main part in each trapezoid is worked in straight rows, back and forth, with the same number of stitches. You will repeat the same 2 elements over and over. For shaping each trapezoid you will decrease 1 stitch per stated number of rows (this number differs for sizes, but you will decrease 1 stitch per row). A constant repeat of the same rows and no shaping makes this pattern suitable for intermediate-level crafters who enjoy watching TV while creating their dreamiest outfits.

DOWNLOAD this pattern:  

From Ravelry www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sinequanon

From my website: https://conceptcreative.store/shop/sinequanon-knit-sweater-dress-pattern

Till December, 31st you will receive 2 patterns (dress and scarf) when purchasing this PDF on Etsy www.etsy.com/listing/924106813/

Read more details about available SIZES and suitable YARNS below.

Copyright © 2021 All rights reserved. Any reprinting, transmitting, reproducing, publishing or otherwise using for commercial purposes parts of this tutorial is strictly prohibited without our prior written permission.

Feel free to share photos of your finished project: http://mycrochet.conceptcreative.store/

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The sample shown was made with 8 wool-linen strands held together. You may take thin 2 ply (UK), Cobweb, 0, or Lace yarn (USA) such as Colourmart Merino Silk Linen, Natural Fantasy Dharan and knit in several strands as described.

Or use 8 ply (UK), DK-weight = 3 = Light (USA) yarn and work with one strand. Suitable brands:

Knit Picks Gloss DK,

Rowan Baby Merino Silk DK,

Malabrigo Yarn Silky Merino etc.

Please get the gauge to make sure the project fits your size! This garment is calculated for 22 stitches x 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4’’).

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This knit sweater-dress pattern is calculated for SIZES:
M-L, fits bust circumference 94-102 cm = 37-40’’, hips up to 105 cm = 41.5’’;
L-XL, fits bust 104-112 cm = 41-44’’, hips up to 115 cm = 45’’;
2XL-3XL, fits bust 115-123 cm = 45-48.5’’, hips up to 125 cm = 49’’;
3XL-4XL, fits bust 125-134 cm = 49-53’’, hips up to 136 cm = 53.5’’.
If you are between the sizes, for example your bust and hips are 94 cm = 37‘’ choose a closest smaller size.

Sample shown in size M/L on model with bust circumference of 92.5 cm = 36.5’’, hip 98 cm = 38.5’’ and a height of 175 cm = 5’75”. Yardage in the sample: 2010 yards for dress without collar (add 360 yards for the turtleneck collar). Weight of the dress with turtleneck 900 grams = 31.7 oz.

You will receive:

► tutorial in ENGLISH with written interpretation of main pattern;

► diagrams (reading charts is not essential, but they allow to notice any of your mistakes at once);

► schematic with measurements;

► photos of the assembly (folding instructions);

► photos how to slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in the back, knit 3rd stitch, yarn over, knit 2 stitches from the cable needle.
You should know how to work basic stitches: knit; purl; yarn over; knit 2together; purl 2together (their photos are not included).

DOWNLOAD this pattern:  
https://conceptcreative.store/shop/sinequanon-knit-sweater-dress-pattern
https://www.etsy.com/listing/924106813/turtleneck-sweater-dress-pattern
Link this pattern on Ravelry: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sinequanon

 

How to minimize pilling in your handmade sweaters?

***

A while ago I made a cardi with not well twisted wool/acrylic blend and after a few days of wearing it I could see those annoying tiny fuzz balls that ruined the look of my cardi, so I will not buy this yarn for my future garment projects. On the contrary, I could not praise more the look of several handmade sweaters made with the superwash wool even after a few years of wearing them (you can see one of them below).

But let’s discuss why the yarn pills and what could be done to minimize pilling in your handmade sweaters?

A few basics:

🔷 Knitted/crocheted handmade sweaters pill more than woven fabrics because stitches have large spaces between them and fibers are not held together tightly – there’s more area for the abrasion to take place, especially if the yarn is not twisted tightly. In other words, the higher the twist, the firmer your sweater. The looser the weave of the yarn, the more prone it will be to pilling.

Thus, RULE 1: Choose designs that require tighter knit/crochet over a looser one and a tightly woven yarn.

 

🔷 Yarn is made of long or short fibers; the latter are more likely to pill. Synthetics have more tiny ends that can get tangled together and create pills (as opposed to long fibers, like silk, linen). Handmade sweaters that combine natural and synthetic fibers (cotton/polyester or wool/acrylic blends), are more likely to pill because one fiber is stronger than the other. The weaker fiber will break, knot around to the stronger fiber, and a pill is formed.

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Thus, RULE 2: Choose yarns made with long fibers, even if they are more expensive, avoid fiber blends unless you are making cheap hat-glove-scarf sets or kids’ garments that last one season and then they pill awfully.

 

But you have already crocheted a sweater that looks rough and dowdy even after the first wash/wear. Like my cardi :(.
Are there some tricks that will keep your EXISTING sweaters looking their best longer? Sweater-shavers would not be a great solution because crochet stitches have an uneven texture and if you shave too much, you could ruin your favorite handmade garment.
So, we are left with washing and care.

RULE 3: Washing.

– Wash sweaters inside out to prevent excessive abrasion to the right side from other clothes, zippers, or buttons. The pills will show up mostly on the backside.

– Wash handmade sweaters individually – the pill becomes a magnet for other loose threads in other clothes and the threads become entangled. That’s why a black garment often catches little white knots (fuzz) from another fabric. Here I wash my pink knit sweater first, then my turquoise crochet sweater:

– Use a laundry detergent with enzymes. The enzyme will help break down small pills and remove some of those loose, short fibers that tend to pill.

– Washing sweaters by hand is easy, more gently and completely worth it for extending the life and shape of your handmade sweaters. Put your wool sweater in cold or lukewarm water with a delicate detergent, submerge one hand so it touches the garment and agitate it a bit so the water shows some movement, let it soak for 5-10 minutes.

– Rinse sweaters with fresh cold water. Add a fabric softener to the rinse cycle – it will coat the surface of your sweater so that abrasion is lessened.

– Avoid wringing or aggressively squeezing your knitted/crocheted sweater. Since your sweater is heavy with water push it against the walls of the tub to get out excess moisture.

–  Dry your sweater by placing on a flat towel and rolling from the bottom up to get out excess moisture. Lay the whole sweater on a flat drying surface (make sure no piece is hanging off because the stitches will stretch out there), arrange the shoulders and sleeves so it has its proper form.

– For sweaters that need a last-minute refresh before you wear them, try using an iron with the steam setting on gently passed over your sweater. But generally avoid heat when washing or drying.

Fold your sweater when not wearing it – you don’t wish to stretch out the shoulders and arms and ruin the shape. This is especially important for sweaters with HUGE stitches. I personally hang one of my wool cardigans that I crocheted with a small 2-mm hook so I can wear it anytime. I know that these small stitches will not stretch anymore :). This is how my cardigan sweater looks like today (compare to photos that were taken almost 5 years ago: https://conceptcreativeblog.2016/01/16/diagonal-jacket-pattern/ ). Not bad, right?

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How do I keep my crochet wool sweaters looking their best longer? Basically it's all about washing and care. RULE 3: Washing [for rules 1-2 see my previous post]. – Wash sweaters inside out to prevent excessive abrasion to the right side from other clothes, zippers, or buttons. The pills will show up mostly on the backside. – Wash handmade sweaters individually – the pill becomes a magnet for other loose threads in other clothes and the threads become entangled. Swipe to see how I wash my pink knit sweater (photo 6), then wash and dry my turquoise crochet sweater (photos 7-9). – Washing and rinsing sweaters by hand in lukewarm water will extend the life and shape of your sweaters. – Use a laundry detergent with enzymes – they break down small pills and remove some short fibers. Add a fabric softener to the rinse cycle – it will coat the surface of your sweater so that abrasion is lessened. – Avoid wringing or aggressively squeezing your handmade sweater. Since your sweater is heavy with water push it against the walls of the tub to get out excess moisture. – Dry your sweater by placing on a flat towel and rolling from the bottom up to get out excess moisture. Swipe to see how I do it with my turquoise sweater that has almost NOT CHANGED after 5 years of wearing it (compare my old photo 5 with new ones with the day on my phone 😊 – photos 3-4). Lay the whole sweater on a flat drying surface (make sure no piece is hanging off because the stitches will stretch out there), arrange the shoulders and sleeves so it has its proper form. – Fold your handmade sweaters made with HUGE stitches when you are not wearing them. I actually always hang one of my wool cardigans that I crocheted with a small 2-mm hook so I can wear it anytime – I know that these small stitches will not stretch anymore and I will look elegant in this cardigan sweater. Photo 1 shows how it looks like after 5 years of wearing. Not bad, right? 😉 I’ll write about RULE 4: CARE next time. Stay tuned! ____________ In my account I only post patterns created by #conceptcreativestore and your stunning completed projects created with them. All links to patterns are in my bio. Happy crafting 🥰

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RULE 4: Care.

– Pilling comes from excessive wear. These fuzzy bobbles in sweaters appear on the areas that receive the most abrasion, such as under the arms, around the cuffs and on elbows. The tiny ends in short-fiber yarn will break every time when your sweater is rubbed or abraded. To minimize the pilling try not to rub your garment against any surface – pull your sleeves up if you are going to write, type or even drink a cup of tea to prevent your sweater’s elbows look worn-out.

– Jewelry will rub the fiber, so it’s better to leave it at home when you wear your treasured sweater. For the same reason it’s better to avoid any zippers and buttons near your sweater because they will cause more harm to the fiber during wearing and washing your sweater.

– Try to hold all bags in your hand and not across your shoulder. You do not wish to have one side or one shoulder look worn-out.

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In line with the current sustainability trend, I'm showing you my #SWEATERafter5years of wearing it on a regular basis. In this 2-min-long home 😜 video I explain what I usually avoid with sweaters [and in my previous posts I gave some tips about yarn and washing that should help your garments look their best too]. No acrylic-fast-fashion-tips though 😜. Could you write a few of your LIFE HACKS and show your sweater with the tag #SWEATERafter5years ? Can't wait to see them! Yes, we see that fashion is circular and there are so many different kinds of aesthetics that it's worth prolonging the lifestyle of existing garments that make us feel great – we will enjoy them much more! For example, my friend's daughter is now wearing a sweater-dress that her mother wore in 90-ies. Garments that were "in" 3 years ago had elements that my great-grandmother used to wear, which is really amazing. I'm happy that the idea of garments being "in" or out of style is less marked nowadays than it was 10 years ago. Which makes our high quality handmade garments be "in" :). ____________ In my account I only post patterns created by #conceptcreativestore and your stunning completed projects created with them. All links to patterns are in my bio. Happy crafting 🥰 . . . #crochetsweater, #conceptcreativeblog, #lovecrochet, #conceptcreative, #crochetcreations, #instacrochet, #crochetlove, #crochetpattern, #crochettop, #crochetersofinstagram, #crochetaddict, #crocheting, #crocheter, #crochettoppattern, #ravelry, #crochetgirlgang , #crochet, #ravelrypattern, #crochetdesigner, #crochetfashion, #crochetersofig, #crochetsweaterpattern, #crochetdesign, #crochetdresspattern, #crochetdress, #sweaterweather, #crochetfashion

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– Do not wear sweaters that can pill under other garments (a coat) to prevent excessive rubbing.

– Only wash your sweater when it needs it, and avoid friction. Wool sweaters don’t have to be washed super often, as long as you thoroughly air them out in between wears.

Hope it helps!

Below you can see my favorite two handmade sweaters that I wear on a regular basis and take on most trips because they are comfortable, light weight and they always look great on me. I mention the recommended yarn and show whether the look of these sweaters has changed over time.
My Detour sweater still looks great after one year of intensive wear :).

Here I recommend to use 100 % superwash merino Fingering-weight = 1 = Super Fine (USA) = 4 ply (UK). Such as:

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/yarna-juli

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/debbie-bliss-rialto-4-ply

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/viking-of-norway-baby-ull

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/louet-gems-fingering-weight

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/create-with-adlibris-baby-merino

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/5th-avenue-superwash-merino-wool

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/king-cole-anti-tickle-merino-blend-4-ply

What’s the difference between merino and superwash merino? In superwash the producers have removed and suppressed all those tiny scales that cover each individual fiber and then coated the yarn to compress and smooth the fibers and make the yarn dense and even. The scales on fiber are what help yarns hold together when they are spun and plied. Since some of the natural structure is missing from the yarn, the fibers in this yarn have no natural way to grip each other. The yarn is splitty, less elastic, more drapey, and it compresses easily. The fibers are twisted around each other, but not locked together. Because the fibers aren’t hanging on to each other, superwash yarns work best for drapey garments like shawls and are not good for cable knits that require great stitch definition.

Remember that gauge with superwash and usual wool yarn DIFFERS.

This sweater exists in solid and colorful version. My solid-colored sweater has no waist-shaping, suggestions on how to make it fitted to your waist and how to crochet a sweater dress are included. This top down seamless sweater is designed without a humpback that is so common in circular yoke sweaters. The raised back and bust darts create a better fit, while the stretchy fabric will feel like a second skin.

The pattern includes charts, written instructions and photo-tutorial of stitches. Get it from:

www.RAVELRY.com/patterns/library/detour-sweater

www.ETSY.com/listing/735251329/detour-modern-crochet-sweater-pattern

My website:

https://conceptcreative.store/shop/detour-crochet-sweater-pattern-crochet-tutorial-in-english/

This mohair-nylon crochet sweater was made in October 2015 and it looks perfect even after FIVE years of wearing it.

Usually any fiber that does not tend to absorb water – polyester, nylon – tends to pill, which is not the case here. Photo below was taken after completion:

This is how it looks like after 5 years of wearing it (a few photos above show how I dried it yesterday :)):

The date of this BBC video on my phone proves that these photos could not be taken before September 2020 :).

I strongly believe that it’s better to care for existing sweaters and avoid yarns that create a fuzzy look soon. Personally I don’t need to crochet too many sweaters, but every of them should look its best.

I would suggest to use one of these yarns for my mohair-nylon sweater:

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/seam-angora-fine

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/lang-yarns-lusso

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/patons-uk-misty

www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/schachenmayr-nomotta-kid-light

A lace-weight merino will work too :).

Get this sweater pattern from:

www.RAVELRY.com/patterns/library/mohair-wavy-pullover

www.ETSY.com/listing/154189502/raglan-crochet-sweater-pattern

My website: https://conceptcreative.store/shop/fluctuation-sweater-crochet-pattern-crochet-tutorial/

 

I usually show my handmade garments in my Instagram account, feel free to follow me and crochet/knit some of my patterns.

 Happy crafting!

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How to minimize pilling in your handmade sweaters? A few basics: . 🔷 Knitted/crocheted handmade sweaters pill more than woven fabrics because stitches have large spaces between them and fibers are not held together tightly – there's more area for the abrasion to take place, especially if the yarn is not twisted tightly. In other words, the higher the twist, the firmer your sweater. The looser the weave of the yarn, the more prone it will be to pilling. Thus, RULE 1: Choose designs that require tighter knit/crochet over a looser one and a tightly woven yarn. . 🔶 Yarn is made of long or short fibers; the latter are more likely to pill. Synthetics have more tiny ends that can get tangled together and create pills (as opposed to long fibers, like silk, linen). Handmade sweaters that combine natural and synthetic fibers (cotton/polyester or wool/acrylic blends), are more likely to pill because one fiber is stronger than the other. The weaker fiber will break, knot around to the stronger fiber, and a pill is formed. Thus, RULE 2: Choose yarns made with long fibers, avoid fiber blends unless you are making cheap hat-glove-scarf sets or kids’ garments that last one season and then they pill awfully. My #detoursweater is made with 100% MERINO and it still looks great after a year! 😉 ♦️Are there some tricks that will keep your EXISTING sweaters looking their best longer? I’ll write them next time, they will be RULE 3 😊. Stay tuned! ____________ In my account I only post patterns created by #conceptcreativestore and your stunning completed projects created with them. All links to patterns are in my bio. Happy crafting 🥰

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